anatomyofstyle.com: Fit Matters

anatomyofstyle.com: Fit Matters

Fit Matters

I had a fabulous conversation this morning with Cricket Lee. She is a pioneer in the field of sizing. If you are scratching your head and asking what the field of sizing is don't think you've missed something. When I say pioneer....I mean pioneer. The likes of The Wall Street Journal (click the link to see a short video featuring Cricket...be patient, it takes a minute to load), the Today Show (Cricket will be a guest again next week) and countless others have had her talk about her revolutionary sizing system.

So here is the deal about sizing. Can you say that you are always a specific size? Or, can you wear everything from a small to a large depending on the cut? The answer is typically that you can wear a range of sizes depending on the designer, cut or type of fabric. But, what if you could buy clothing based on a uniform sizing system that wasn't just about the size, but it was also by the fit. Like, are you a triangle, hourglass or oval. You would never have to try clothing on again because you would know what size you really were.

Well, Cricket is the woman who has taken this on as her mission. She has a system that doesn't just standardize the way that clothing is sized, but actually starts at the manufacturer. The designer and manufacturer make their designs and patterns to incorporate the various shapes of women. As consumers we will look for clothing that has the Fitlogic symbol attached. We will buy the exact same size every time. I don't know anyone who doesn't think that it would be nice to buy pants that fit in the waist and the hips! Today pants...tomorrow jackets.

It is up to us, the real women, to support the people who have gone to battle in the world of fashion for us. We deserve to be able to buy clothes that are fabulous, affordable and fit well. It is time for us to stand up and say that we believe we are worthy of beautiful clothes made for the real woman's body. Thank you, Cricket, for being our champion!

Please comment to this blog if you believe we are moving in the right direction. And, if you want a great fitting pant visit the Fitlogic website to see where to buy them.

Mommy Jeans

This is a departure from what I normally write, but I would like to discuss "mommy jeans." I've seen a lot of them around lately and am wondering what's going on with these jeans. Just so we are clear, let me define "mommy jeans." These jeans are higher waisted (not a bad thing) and have a tapered leg (not usually a good thing). The combination of the high waist and tapered leg is what makes them "mommy jeans."

The combination is also what makes women look an awful lot like an ice cream cone. Even very thin women have trouble pulling off this style of jean. It just isn't a flattering shape for any body. But, the good news is that there are alternatives! Good alternatives.

I know that for a lot of years it has been difficult to find a jean that you felt covered your bottom when you had to bend even a fraction of an inch. I think that is a very big reason that women have hung on to their dated "mommy jeans." I can completely sympathize. No one wants to feel that exposed when they are running errands, running after kids or simply getting into their cars. The good news, overall, is that waist lines are going up and they are generally not combined with a tapered leg.

When buying a new jean to update your look...go for a boot cut or even wider if you want a really modern look. It is okay for your jeans to come to your belly button or just slightly below. As a matter of fact, they are fairly easy to find now. Eddie Bauer has a great, casual jean that is perfect for daily wear (and its got some stretch to it). Another option is the Coldwater Creek Natural Waist logo cropped jeans. They offer a nice fit at a reasonable price and a wide range of sizes.

I don't want anyone to feel bad if they are still wearing their "mommy jeans." Our goal is to let you know that there are jeans out there that offer a modest fit and will make you look a whole size smaller. Not only will you appear smaller, but you will also look younger with an updated jean. I don't know many women who aren't interested in looking thinner and younger. Happy shopping, ladies!

A little chamelion

I went to an appointment today with a practitioner I see on a regular basis. When she walked out of her office I didn't recognize her. I think the first thing out of my mouth was, "Oh my God! You are gorgeous!" She had completely changed her hair....that's it.

I oood and awed over her hair and had her turn and touched it. I just loved the way it made her look sassy and sexy. She usually has lovely, curly hair that, those of us with straight hair envy, totally reflects her personality. But, this new hair made a different light shine through. It didn't take too long for her to share the secret.

It was a wig. A really good wig! She had found this store and played with various styles one day. She discovered that she liked the way she could change her persona with something as simple as wearing a wig. I have to say....it was working for her. So, the question is, is wearing a wig changing who you are to the point that you are being deceptive?

I personally think that it is just like clothes. Some days you feel different than others. There are days for power suits and days for jogging suits. Doesn't it really depend on who we are in that moment? Fundamentally, I think we always have the same style. If you are a classic you will still be a classic whether you are wearing your version of sexy or your version of work attire. But a wig helps you to express who you are in that moment. That's how this friend was feeling. She was expressing a more joyous side of who she is.

Think about the possibilities that open up with the wigs that are available today. When I got married I wanted my hair to be in a high up do. Well, I just didn't have enough hair to make that happen. I was going to be in Los Angeles on business and what better place to find hair than the city of angels. I visited His&Her hair on Wilshire Blvd. I think that is when I became a hair junky. But on the day that I got married my hair was piled high on top of my head with flowers braided into it. I felt, appropriately, just like a princess.

Next time you are feeling like you want a little change in your life, don't discount what a change of hair can do for you.

Spring Cleaning Your Closet

The state of my closet is a direct reflection of what is going on in my life. When my closet looks organized and holds just the clothes that I am currently wearing...my life also seems to be organized and sailing along swimmingly. When my closet gets away from me and becomes chaotic I find that things in my life are also uncertain and crazy. I don't know which comes first....the closet or the life, but I do know that they are related!

So, as I look at my closet this weekend (the last official weekend of winter), I got that Spring cleaning bug. All of a sudden I wanted everything out of my closet. I really am a less is more girl and prefer to have 10 fabulous outfits in my closet instead of a bunch of stuff that isn't perfect for me. I dug in and got my closet back in order and it felt so good.

I have been working with women for years regarding their appearance, shopping and the dreaded closet organization. The thing that is hardest for women to do for themselves is get in that closet and get it working for them. I thought I would share with you the steps that I use with clients and for myself.

1. Look at each piece in your closet with brutal honesty and ask yourself if you feel great when you wear that item. Ask yourself if it fits well, if it is in good condition, does the color look good on you and does it reflect your personality. I have a beautiful, turquoise, cashmere sweater that I bought several years ago. It is the perfect color and it was expensive. I finally gave it up and got it out of my closet because it just didn't fit well. You have to be very honest with yourself when you go through this step...even if it means that you are getting rid of the majority of your wardrobe.

   Clothes that do not make you feel great can actually damage your self esteem.

   Take anything out of your closet that needs attention. Whether it is alterations, dry cleaning, repair, ironing or anything else. Put these items in the appropriate stack and make a pledge to yourself to get these taken care of, in a set amount of time, so that you can enjoy wearing them.

   Neglecting clothes that would work for you is like leaving dollar bills just hanging uselessly in your closet.

   Take anything out of your closet that doesn't have something to go with it. I have this rich, caramel colored, silk blouse that has to have something under it because it is so low cut. The color is beautiful on me and I love the top. I have not had anything to wear it with for close to a year. I just haven't made it a priority to get something to go under it. This weekend I took it out of my closet, made a note in my planner to get something to go with it and promised myself that if I haven't gotten something by the end of the month then it really isn't that important and I will give it away.

   Things that hang in your closet without purpose create clutter in your mind.

   Finally, take the clothes that are left and organize them in a format that works for you. I am going to share with you several ways that I organize clients closets. Everyone has a different personality and therefore a different approach to organization.

• Hang your clothes by type: all blouses together, all skirts together, all pants, etc. The person who is traditional and classic prefers to hang her clothes this way and make the most out of her wardrobe overall.
• Hang your clothes by color: put all of your blues, browns, reds, blacks, etc. together in groups. The person who like to hang her clothes this way is creative and likes to pull together outfits by color vs. type.
• Hang your clothes by outfit: put an entire outfit together on the rack including blouse, jacket, pants, scarf, etc. The person who enjoys organizing her wardrobe this way doesn't want to spend any time trying to pull together an outfit. She would rather wear the same combination over and over for the ease of having it together in her closet.

Organizing your closet according to your personality is the way to create a sense of well being whenever you get dressed.

It is important to put ourselves on the list. Many times women put off doing something for themselves because they are so busy taking care of everyone else. I promise that if your closet is not in the order that you would like for it to be and you take the time to do something about that...it will positively impact your life.

Transitional Clothing

The other day was a beautiful, sunny afternoon in the 60's. I put the top down on my car and relished in the warm sunshine. The funny thing is that there was still snow on the ground from the 10 inches we received earlier in the week. Could it be any harder to get dressed during this season? This time of year is always a challenge. And, technically it is still Winter, but our minds and bodies seem to be longing for Spring.

So, we go to get dressed in the morning when there is a little chill in the air and it is hard to figure out what to wear that will be comfortable all day long. Our heavier sweaters and jackets may be just a little too much right now. However, the lighter linen and cotton jackets may feel a little bit too "Springy" since it is still winter. Here are the suggestions that we have to help you make it through this transitional time.

1. Layer, layer, layer. You cannot go wrong if you are wearing things that you can pile on in the morning and take off during the day. Make sure that you are wearing items that you are comfortable with even if you take off a jacket or sweater.


2. Wear lighter colors in heavier fabrics. Go ahead and break out the white, brights and pastels as long as they are in heavier knits, wool or a tweed. The lighter color will make you feel like Spring while the heavier fabric will help you to stay warm.
   
   


3. Wear bright colored leather. You will be warm and chic. The brighter color will help your mood to stay sunny.


4. Finally, wear something patent. Whether it is shoes, a handbag or even a jacket...the shine will create a sense of light and brightness. Patent has a way of lightening even the most wintery of outfits!

The good news is that this weather won't last long and we will be able to pull out our Spring frocks in just a few weeks! Until then stay warm and cool.

Does Size Matter?

I have to start this blog entry with a disclaimer. I absolutely do not believe that size matters when it comes to beauty. I think that if we put parameters around what beauty looks like that we end up with a society that has no flavor or diversity. We end up all looking the same. With that said...I want to talk about size and clothing.

Here goes....I am 4'11" and range from a size 10-14 on any given day. Today, I happen to be around a size 14. A lot of women keep wardrobes in a couple of different sizes. I keep 3 wardrobes in different sizes and can change size 3 times in a month depending on what I am eating and how much exercise I am getting. I don't mind my size. I wear it well and don't spend too much energy on worrying about it unless I am trying to buy clothes.

The only time that clothing fits me well is when I am a size 4 in misses or 6 in petites. Otherwise, most things are too long in the torso (I am short waisted) and long in the rise (still short waisted). I have all the resources in the country available to me and I still struggle to find clothing that fits well. So, what is the solution?

Here is the best way to handle being a size that clothing manufacturers do not address:

1. Less is more! Don't buy something and wear it because it fits okay. Wear things that fit fabulous even if that means you wear them over and over. You will feel better than if you wear something that you fuss with the entire time that you have it on.
2. Avoid shopping sales. Buy what fits you well regardless of the price. If you follow the less is more philosophy you can afford to spend more on clothing that makes you feel good about yourself.
3. Find a seamstress who can alter what you buy. Lengths on sleeves, pants and skirts can easily be changed. Find a seamstress who has the skills to do even more. Mine recently removed the waistband and zipper of a skirt that had a decorative bottom and shortened it from the top.
4. Do not blame your body. The fault does not lie in your size or shape. Designers and manufacturers are not addressing the needs of all women. Bottom line....be kind to yourself. The more you hate your body and the way you look, the more it effects the quality of your life.

There is a change coming in the apparel industry. Finally, the people in the industry are beginning to see the value in addressing different women's shapes and sizes. A couple of examples are Fitlogic Pants that are sold according to waist and hip size and Triofit from Rebecca&Drew Manufacturing that are sold according to bra size, waist and hip measurements (unfortunately, they aren't available in petites). My favorite, not just because she is a friend, but because she has the product that stresses us the most is Lori Coulter TrueMeasure bathing suits. A body scan takes over 140 measurements and translates those into the perfect fitting bathing suit!

The changes will continue to be made as long as women demand it and support the pioneers in this area. Remember, buy less for more and get the most!

Vacation

I apologize to those of you who read this blog regularly. I am in Puerto Rico this week and thought that I could post from here. I have found that I do not have regular service and will not be able to post.

Please visit me next week when I return rejuvinated and full of new insight to share.

Thank you,
Gini Swancy

What to wear on a date

This question comes up so often that I thought it was time to write about it. Women email me all the time asking what they should wear on a date. Almost every time I hear the same thing. Women tell me that they want to look sexy, but not too sexy. They want to look dressed up, but not like they tried too hard. They want to look like themselves, but better. If you've dated recently you are probably laughing right now. I think we have all been there!



I find it so intriguing that we go through this to get ready for a date that I started asking men what they wanted to see. If we are getting dressed to impress them...shouldn't we find out what does it for them? The answers were the same most every time. Okay, there are a couple of exceptions, but I'll talk about them later.



Men say that the sexiest thing on a woman is confidence and a smile. Most men can give you an idea of what a woman was wearing, but not a real description. For example, if you ask my husband what I was wearing when he met me you will get a remarkable answer. He will tell you that I had on a navy, skirted suit and heels. Not bad, right? I mean, that was 12 years ago! Except, I had on a black, skirted suit. The suit was this fantastic long jacket and shorter skirt. I wore it with really sheer black nylons and a pair of kid leather pumps with a small bow on top. The jacket buttoned all the way up with five buttons and had a double collar. Okay, what I was wearing was way more important to me than it was to him.



If you ask him what he remembers about me he will tell you that he thought my smile lit up the room. He liked that I was confident and took the lead with my group (we met in a business setting). He will also tell you that he thought my eyes were beautiful and he couldn't get them out of his mind. These are the things that he fell for. These are the things that made me beautiful to him.



I'm telling you this because at that point and time I wasn't dressing for him. I was dressing for me. I wore things that made me feel like I could conquer the world. I remember shopping with my mother for weeks to prepare for this job. It was a really big deal and I wanted suits that were unique and reflected my personality (conservative with an edge). I managed to find five suits that were perfect.



So when you go on a date remember this. Dress for yourself. When you feel like you can conquer the world he will take notice. He will probably not be able to remember what you had on, but he will remember that you were confident and happy. But, there's more.



The one thing that you must pay attention to is grooming. Make sure that your nails are clean, shaped and that you are not wearing chipped polish. If you have on polish and it chips, take the time to take it off. Make sure that your clothes are clean and in good shape. Wear shoes that are in good shape and don't show excessive wear. Make sure that you wear a conservative amount of perfume. So many people are allergic to various scents. He probably will not notice the details (I mean, they are men!), but he will notice that you care for yourself. That makes it easier for him to care for you too.



Finally, I told you that there was an exception to the rule about what impresses a man. The main exception is situational. He may not care much about what you have on but if you are extremely out of place with what you are wearing he will probably notice. For example, if you are going to a five star restaurant you will want to skip the jeans. If you are going to a ballgame you will want to skip the dressy dress. Just be aware of what the norm is (especially for him) and follow that.



Happy dating, girls.